Firstly you need a giant wave, the sea itself is not enough… The wave will come and break, get bigger and a speedy acrobatics with the push of the wave will begin. What makes surfing so attractive is this… You get hooked once you try.
Without a doubt Duke Kahanamoku can take the biggest credit in making surf a worldwide popular sport. This well known sportsman revived surfing in Hawaii again and showed it to the world. In 1911, Kahanamoku was breaking world records while in 1912 he got the chance to be a part of the Olympics.
- Of course surfing has lost a great part of its old traditional roots today, now it is being done all over the world and it provides an introvert concept. There are still surfers in the shores of California, Australia and Hawaii, their modern surf boards are lighter and smaller.
Weather is warming up, people are slowly getting over the effects of winter and adapting to the lively world around them. Everyone will try to make use of this as soon as they find the opportunity, some will travel abroad, some will throw themselves in the sea and the beaches! Of course because of heavy work life and city rush, for some of us vacation time is a great opportunity for relaxation. We usually do not have enough opportunities to discover something new, learn something different or get another skill. Either way we should stay away from laziness during these times and use them as unique opportunities to develop ourselves.
So what can be done? We are lucky to live in a country with seas, big beaches, luxurious accommodation options and means to actualize any water sport. During these months when nature comes to life and spreads warmness into our hearts and minds with its precious colors, it is not wise not to use these values. Surfing is ideal for people who adopt this lifestyle. Beyond just a hobby, it is a challenge with nature which shapes lives and perspectives of the people involved. Imagine yourself on top of only a piece of wood as giant waves rise above you, you are going fast in the water, splitting the waves and just when the giant waves look like they are going to swallow you, you become the wave and move like them. You become a spectacle for the people watching you from the shore and for you that moment in the waves becomes an unforgettable victory and the feeling that you enjoy life.
From the Pacific Islands to the Modern World…
Actually, for the people living in the Pacific islands, surfing is a routine practice. In fact this sport has been used as a method for gaining political power in ancient societies. Europeans first met surfing in 1767 in the shores of Tahiti. European sailors were impressed when they say these men who could travel on a long, heavy board in the sea. For the inhabitants of this area, surfing could increase your political status in society. The best surfer would be chosen as the leader of the tribe and he could have the surfboard made from the best tree in the village. During the 1800s, European missionaries who came to Hawaii looked down on the people’s traditions and tried to change it. Thus, surfing started losing its importance in these regions. At the beginning of 1900s, surfing was identified and known by international sports organizations. Without a doubt Duke Kahanamoku can take the biggest credit in making surf a worldwide popular sport. This well known sportsman revived surfing in Hawaii again and showed it to the world. In 1911, Kahanamoku was breaking world records while in 1912 he got the chance to be a part of the Olympics. During this time, he won three gold, two silver and one bronze medal.
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Thanks to Kahanamoku’s travels in South California, surfing becomes popular and turns into a global lifestyle. Of course it should not be forgotten that it was George Freeth who developed this sport in the area. In the 1920s, surfing tournaments started to be organized and along with this a sub culture which was integrated into city life emerged; the surfing culture. Surfers would carry their boards on top of their cars and when they saw good waves, they would stop their engines to challenge nature. 1960s is when surfing becomes a mainstream sport amongst the people. USA was able to get great recognition during this time in surfing through the movies, TV shows and music which featured surfing and surfer life. Of course surfing has lost a great part of its old traditional roots today, now it is being done all over the world and it provides an introvert concept. There are still surfers in the shores of California, Australia and Hawaii, their modern surf boards are lighter and smaller. Surfers are of course within the society however they still chase giant waves with the ancient flames in their hearts.